First real field test with Nikon 105mm F/2.8D.
Printed From: Reptiles and Amphibians of the UK
Category: General
Forum Name: Photography
Forum Description: General discussion and a place to share off-topic images
URL: http://www.herpetofauna.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4695
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Topic: First real field test with Nikon 105mm F/2.8D.
Posted By: Testudo Man
Subject: First real field test with Nikon 105mm F/2.8D.
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2014 at 10:24pm
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Having finally got my hands on a "proper" macro lens(October 2013) for my Nikon D7000, i was itching to test it out in the field. What better subject, than wild UK reptiles. Although this lens is not the new 105 VR version, its still a superb lens, and i was happy to locate a mint example, not 5 miles from home. Im still testing it, getting to grips with it, but it handles superb, focuses quick, and has a high rate of "keepers". Several shots, no flash, hand held. All taken on the 22/2/14. All comments welcome, cheers. This male adder pic is not cropped at all. http://s9.photobucket.com/user/444888999/media/Reptiles/22nd-Feb-2014-to-700f_zps20b7d8e1.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  Some cropping to this next image, the 2nd adder seen on the day(3 snakes seen in total). http://s9.photobucket.com/user/444888999/media/Reptiles/22nd-Feb-2014-to-600a_zps80cf4cf5.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  This last image is not cropped at all. An adult Common Lizard. http://s9.photobucket.com/user/444888999/media/Reptiles/22nd-Feb-2014-to-700g_zpsdf2f4f54.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  |
Replies:
Posted By: will
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2014 at 6:45am
great photos, well done  after years of using bridge cameras I sold all I owned to buy the newer micro-nikkor 105mm AF lens last year and I was not disappointed. I was expecting superb optics, but hadn't planned on it being so versatile - making it possible to use it almost as a zoom (although its a prime lens, of course) provided you can stalk to within a few metres of a reasonably large target like an adder, and then maybe crop a little as required. Like you, I'm looking forward to what the coming season holds as I only got the lens at the back end of last year, which was too late to record any decent animal behaviour (although good for dragonflies!)Cheers Will |
Posted By: GemmaJF
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2014 at 10:40am
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Depth of field could be improved, though the sharp focus on the main subject is excellent, the amount of blurring and spread I find distracting. Obviously though there is a limit with available light. We did have a thread on this on the old forum, not sure it has survived. The actual shots/poses though are superb.
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Posted By: AGILIS
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2014 at 12:26pm
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I seem to have given up on using a Canon digital slr with 200/300mm lens. and gone back to a 10x zoom compact panasonic Lumix tz series thats easy to keep in my pocket only tried briefly on Weds when I spotted a liz keith and quite pleased with the crop that i did within the camera. keith ------------- LOCAL ICYNICAL CELTIC ECO WARRIOR AND FAILED DRUID |
Posted By: will
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2014 at 5:18pm
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@Gemma - it's interesting, the whole DOF thing - I personally really like a blurred background - the whole 'bokeh' thing, which can give a snake or lizard portrait a real 3-D look, but I know some people who take this to extremes and who just want an eye to be sharp, which is too much in my view. For hand held, in situ shots without the VR stabilisation feature I would say these are lovely portraits, but it's completely subjective, just a question of what you, as the viewer, want to see from a portrait I guess. I posted a photo a couple of years ago of a common lizard on a rock with a Welsh beach behind it which could only have been taken with my old bridge camera, since the DOF was about 1km! |
Posted By: GemmaJF
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2014 at 5:57pm
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I think Will macro photography of herptiles presents some interesting challenges, small head compared to elongated bodies makes them rather unique in that respect, as does the very three dimensional habitats they frequent. Certainly plenty of room for experiment between deep and shallow focus to be explored. It's not that I don't like the pictures either, not at all. I remember similar comments when I first posted up macro shots which led to quite a lot of experimentation with DOF with my new lens and as my understanding developed of both that and post processing I was able to use DOF as composition device and also increase it when needed. A bit of constructive criticism can at times be more helpful than a list of 'wow' what a great photo comments and Testudo Man clearly titled the thread first field test! Be interesting to see how his work develops with the new lens.  |
Posted By: Tom Omlette
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2014 at 6:31pm
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the closer you are to the subject the more dof becomes a problem. macro lenses are designed for this though and tend to handle diffraction better at smaller apertures so you can get away with using f11 and above if you need to. light becomes a problem then though and slower shutter speeds = camera shake which can be the difference between an acceptable shot and something super sharp, especially if you are hand-holding. i like to see a variety of shots really so isolating the eye or a particular feature can work very well, nice blurry bokeh can be really effective but shots that show the immediate habitat and even wide angle shots can work really well. so many things to get right in a picture - focus, dof, composition, sharpness, interest etc its a wonder we ever manage anything half decent!!! looking forward to seeing more pics from the 105vr :) tom ps where are you btw?
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Posted By: Testudo Man
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2014 at 7:47pm
Thanks Will, it sounds like you have taken the same path as me, however i have still kept my bridge cameras, and i still use them(especially with adding a Raynox 250 macro lens). Your 105mm micro VR was tempting, but i couldnt justify the approx £600 for that lens so i bought a 2nd hand AF micro F/2.8D 105mm(which is nikons predecessor to your lens). Nikon lenses command high prices, even the used ones!! Yes, being a prime lens, i had heard that the 105 can be used for portraits too, but i havent really tried that out myself yet. What body do you have your 105 VR mounted to Will? I also like to shoot both Butterflies an Dragonflies, so like you say, once they are all back on the wing, it will be interesting how this 105 lens handles, compared the my other lenses. |
will wrote:Posted By: Testudo Man
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2014 at 8:07pm
Thanks for your comment/input Gemma, and i must confess to liking/prefering the narrow DOF style photography myself, i also like the blurry backgrounds/bokeh too. This lens does behave differently to what Im used to, i normally use a budget Tamron 70-300mm lens, which has a macro setting/switch between 180 to 300mm for most of my reptile photography. But the Tamron did not perform so well for smaller creatures, such as Butterflies/Dragonflies/Bugs, so that was one of the reasons why i chose to go for a dedicated macro lens. At between 180 to 300mm, my tamron would shoot all day at F5.6, with a nice DOF, but ive found that with this dedicated macro 105mm, im having to try different apperture settings, probably due to the closer focusing distance of 105 lens. The photos above were shot at F8, but i could have to increase even further still? F8 on my Tamron, would not look the same as F8 on this 105 nikon len. So its all about playing around with the settings, to achieve the type of images that i prefer. Its early days yet, but i will get there |
Posted By: Testudo Man
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2014 at 8:18pm
If Im honest, my panasonic FZ45 bridge camera, with a raynox 250 macro lens attached, is hard to beat. But there are problems with this, if the light is poor(higher ISO's needed) then forget it, a DSLR will nearly always produce better images in poor light. When i go out for a session, i take both cameras, that way most bases are covered. However, when i took a trip down the Kent coast last year, to capture some images of the rare Long Tailed Blue Butterflies, i took my bridge camera with raynox, instead of my Nikon DSLR!! I wanted to travel light, it was a long walk...but i got the shots i was after, without carrying a heavy backpack |
Posted By: Testudo Man
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2014 at 8:25pm
It sounds like we are both "singing from the same Hymn book" Will. A shallow/blurred DOF is my preference too, but not to the extent of just the smallest portion of an image in focus. As you say, and others will also echo...photography, like all things in life, is totally subjective. |
Posted By: Testudo Man
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2014 at 8:40pm
I much prefer honest comments, i would disregard a "WOW" comment...Im not interested in "WOW" comments I can, and do, get plenty of those on Flickr!Im a lazy photographer when it comes to camera settings. I normally just shoot in Sportsmode, letting the camera chose optimum shutter/aperture/iso etc. etc...I could get away with that using bridge cameras, and even my 70-300 Tamron zoom lens on a DSLR. Prime lenses force you to think more...dedicated macro lenses force you to get to know your manual settings more......................which can only be a good thing i guess I also only shoot in Jpeg! (shock horror)...and as for PP/editing...i use a very prehistoric Potoshop 6  ...Im such a dinosaur |
Posted By: will
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2014 at 8:54pm
| @testudo man - I'm a JPEG guy too! (partly too much of a dinosaur also I have a thing about manipulating images aside from the odd crop...) camera body was Nikon D3200 now for this season I sold my other kidney to pair the macro with Nikon D7100. So the only reason for poor photos will be the camera operator... |
Posted By: Testudo Man
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2014 at 8:54pm
Hi Tom, i thought i mentioned it before, that Im in Kent Not sure if you got your wires crossed? but my 105mm lens does not have VR, its the older model/lens As already said, still learning how to get the best out of this macro lens...Ive never ventured beyond F8(never really needed to before)...so still a lot to learn, in regards to potential optimum images. Available light certainly plays a part with this lens too...A few more sessions, and i should get to grips with it. But i really needed to test it in the field, in real world conditions...cant wait to try it on some butterflies too. |
Posted By: Tom Omlette
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2014 at 9:22pm
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yes you mentioned both things i just wasn't being alert!!! definitely worth weening yourself off the modes and taking control of the camera yourself. it really does't take that much getting used to. a couple of years ago i knew next to nothing about photography now i would never trust the camera to set more appropriate settings than i could myself. in camera processing isn't as good as most post processing software either so shooting raw has advantages too. just my opinion and what works for me. impressive shots though and looking forward to seeing more. tom
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Posted By: Tom Omlette
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2014 at 9:28pm
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@ will. if you shoot in jpeg there is still processing but the camera does it for you. i'd rather do it myself afterwards than trust the camera tbh. traditionally all digital images have been a little soft and absolutely require a bit of sharpening under all circumstances. however, your d7100 is one of the first to have to antialiasing filter removed from the sensor which has apparently improved sharpness straight out of the camera. a little sharpening may still be required though. noise reduction is also more effective post rather than in camera and that can be important. tom
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Posted By: will
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2014 at 9:01am
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Thanks Tim, appreciate your advice as always- it's probably laziness on my part to let the camera do the processing with JPEG rather than me doing it with RAW... |
Posted By: GemmaJF
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2014 at 11:06am
It was starting out with macro photography that got me off the auto-settings and into using RAW, DOF again, darker pictures for increased DOF were easier to rescue in post processing when shot in RAW. Got a bit lazy of late, use the macro more as a portrait lens and shoot 90% in JPEG - I might make an effort this year to get back into 'taking control' and exploring macro again. I get a real buzz out of watching peoples photography exploits on the forum |
Posted By: Testudo Man
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2014 at 11:08am
I did a test some years ago, shot both Raw an Jpeg images of a common lizard. I edited both types of files(as i normally would) resized down to my normal file sizes, that i upload on the Web/Net. Compared them side by side for images quality, and i struggled to choose which type of file/image was best. Thats not to say that they are the same, i would agree that RAW files are superior, but it all depends what you choose to do with your final images. Once again Will, you have almost travelled the same path as me with your Nikon bodies. Your D7100 is not that far off of a FF D600, so you have a great camera there mate |
Posted By: Testudo Man
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2014 at 11:30am
Sports mode for me, works well in most situations, for my chosen subjects. As you know with wild life, you come across it, then you have a small window in time to capture some decent shots, before the creature runs/flys/slithered off!!...So once i have shot several record/decent shots of a subject, i then put the camera into manual/aperture mode, and finish off shooting pics of the subject, using various settings. I agree with you, manual mode is better, get to know your camera and its optimum settings, and utilize what works best for you. Its definitely all about experimenting, until you find the right settings, for the right situations. As I mentioned in Wills post, i know Raw files are superior to Jpeg files. In fact, I shot some side by side images late last year, of a female adder(using my Nikon D7000) to once again compare Raw against Jpeg. I just have to get around to spending some time, sorting through those images, post processing/editing them, and comparing the outcome. Personally for me, since i have never printed any of my my images, shown any of them as full size files, Jpeg works for my current needs. If i should to choose to print images, or show large full size files, then i would spend that extra time it takes, and edit my images in Raw, because that would be the best option in that situation. |
Posted By: Testudo Man
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2014 at 11:46am
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Some other images shot on the 22/2/14. All these pics have been cropped, just another experiment, to see how the pics cope with various size crops. Same lens used as 1st images. Cropping could have been anything up to 50% of originals. It would seem that this lens allows quite a large crop into the image, whilst maintaining a good result. However most of my re-sized images are small files(typically approx 600 x 450) for most of them. If i displayed these cropped images at their full cropped size, then they would probably lose quality. This was shot in manual - 1/2000 F8 ISO 1800. http://s9.photobucket.com/user/444888999/media/Reptiles/22nd-Feb-2014-to-600ia_zps4f7a2006.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  This was shot in Sports mode - 1/1600 F7.1 ISO 400. http://s9.photobucket.com/user/444888999/media/Reptiles/22nd-Feb-2014-to-600j_zps73dc376b.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  This was also shot in Sports Mode - 1/1000 F4 ISO 800. http://s9.photobucket.com/user/444888999/media/Reptiles/22nd-Feb-2014-to-600h_zps1dfae72f.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  |
Posted By: Tom Omlette
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2014 at 10:08pm
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@ tm - fair dooz if the scene modes work for you then you can't say fairer than that, and they are very good images. the first one is amazing for iso 1800!!! when i jumped from pocket sized compact to dslr a pro photographer friend of mine gave me some advice - "you've spent a lot of money on a very sophisticated piece of equipment, learn how to use it or else you'll just have a very very expensive point and shoot camera!" i thought it was a bit ott at the time but know what he meant now and am glad i took it on board. but as you say, sometimes good to get a few shots in when you can, knowing they'll be ok then worry about getting everything exactly how you want it if you get the chance. @ gemma apart from the herp a day thread haven't seen many pics from you for ages. looking forward to seeing many more this year. tom
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Posted By: Testudo Man
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2014 at 9:53pm
Thanks for your comments. In Sports mode, ISO max's out at 1600. But in Manual mode ISO could be anywhere! I dont set ISO for specific numbers, i have ISO on Auto. My reason for this is the light/weather changes constantly. One minute the sun is out, next minute its cloudy! so rather than mess around with too many settings(and by doing this, theres a good chance of missing the shot) i want my camera to shoot fast. As you know, you come across a snake in the wild, and as a rule, you dont have a lot of time before the snake slithers off fast(especially with my close up style) so i need to get in quick, capture some images, and move on. I often forget about composition as well, i have to remind myself mid shoot, to think more about the composition of the image. As ive said before, i'll be the 1st to admit that ive only "scratched the surface" of the capabilities of a DSLR...but im getting there Ive shot some very interesting adder images over these last couple of days(using this 105mm macro lens) so hope to start to process/edit them soon enough. They could just be, my best adder images to date! |
Posted By: GemmaJF
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2014 at 8:39am
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Interesting! This is why I still love this forum, different approaches and techniques. For getting close-up I'm totally the opposite. There is no rush at all, in fact I can be in the same spot not even moving for an hour! Your sport mode technique is how I use Tv mode. But I will set ISO manually for light conditions. I use this as I approach the animal, not trying to get too close at first. As I approach I will get on the ground and start to crawl towards the animal! Even through the nettles and brambles. When I'm really close I switch to Av mode. Here I go for the smallest aperture opening I can for increased DOF, again manual ISO is pretty essential in anything but the brightest sun, else shutter speed can be too slow for a useable shot. What one finds if you can get 'in the habitat' with the animals, sooner or later they figure out you are not there to eat them, I got some shots of a lizard yesterday in the garden, it was coming up to inspect the lens! The key thing is to be there when they are warming up in the morning. Their urge to get up to operating temperature will overcome their instinct to flee until they get use to you being there. Hope the insight to my own methods is of some help. (It helped to remind me what I use to do if nothing else!) Looking forward to the adder shots |